16th Street Baptist Church service

I attended the Sunday service at the 16th Street Baptist Church, the oldest and most well known of the churches in Birmingham. Those who know me closely may snicker (Chuck went to church? On his own? While traveling?) but I attneded for the histporical significance of the church and also to get a current picture of the role of the church for African AMericans in the South. During the Civil Rights Movement, black churches served as the focal point for spreading news, imploring citizens to act, and developing strength in the community. I think I can say with coinfidence that the church is still fortifying strong communal bonds in the black community today. The service was full of music, children, and communal response. I had never seen anything like it before.

Kelly Ingram Park - Remembering the Children's Crusade

As I walked around this park, across the street from the Birmingham Civil Rights Institute, I was pretty floored by the impact the sculptures and fountains had. The images form the Children’s Crusade are among the most powerful that I use in class throughout the year, and the sculptures associated with the movement are just as awesome. The statue of the dog attacking a young man takes your breath away. The number four is dominant throughout the park, serving as a constant reminder of the “4 Little Girls” that perished in the 16th Street Baptist Church bombing.
I had an unsolicited by much appreciated tour from a local man named Mr. Sanders. He gave me additional insight that isn’t obvious to the casual tourist. He made two interesting observations as well. First, he stated a few times that the monuments and memorials deal with revolution and reconciliation, because you can’t have reconciliation without a revolution. Second, he pointed out the park is named for an Irish American sailor from Birmingham who was the first American sailor killed in WWI. The color of the skin doesn’t matter, he said – just what someone does for others.

You can't walk through this park without feeling something - sad and/or about the events that are commemorated, impressed and proud of the courage the protesters demonstrated, inspired by the message of nonviolence and reconciliation ... I loved the experience. More walking in the footsteps of history.

Birmingham ...

is newer than I thought. It was developed as an industrial site after the Civil War. I always assumed that it was around during the war, supplying iron goods to the Confederacy.

• has a beautiful park (Vulcan Park) that overlooks the city. The massive statue to Vulcan, god of iron, towers over the city. The statue was built for the St. Louis World’s Fair and came home to Birmingham afterwards.


• is hot in June.


• doesn’t open on Sunday until 1:00 in the afternoon.


• has some great barbeque. Mike O – I didn’t get Ollie’s, but Jim and Nick's was tasty tasty.

is a place that I would like to see again ... in the fall.

Selma to Montgomery - A March of Courage

I didn't know much about the Selma campaign and the march to Montgomery before coming on the trip. I has seen images from the Edmund Pettus Bridge and recollections of "Bloody Sunday", but not much more. The event gets short coverage in most textbooks (and in my class), and seems to be overshadowed by the March on Washington, the Montgomery Bus Boycott, and the Little Rock Nine. While those events are all so crucial to the movement, the Selma to Montgomery March must not be forgotten - and receive equal billing.

I retraced the march in reverse, from Montgomery to Selma. The first thing that struck me was the length - over 50 miles. I didn't realize the impact of arriving at the end point until I stepped on the state capitol grounds and got a small but indelible feel of what it would be like to address a crowd there. Walking across the Edmund Pettus Bridge was pretty powerful as well. To walk in the footsteps of those activists that truly put their lives in the line in 1965, knowing what happened there, ... it's hard to explain. I don't know if I could muster the moral courage it took to be a part of the movement.

I also had no idea that black tenant farmers were kicked off their land and lived in tent cities for almost two and a half years in Lowndes County, the middle of the march. It's another great example of ordinary people doing the extraordinary, a hallmark of the Civil Rights Movement.

Needless to say, I will be giving the march much more attention in class next year and beyond. The impact of the march - the Voting Rights Act of 1965 - cannot be ignored, and neither can the experiences and memories of the marchers.

Montgomery - The Civil Rights Memorial Center

My second stop was Montgomery, and I was unprepared for the Civil Rights Memorial Center, founded by the Southern Poverty Law Center. I was aware of the organization through their Teaching Tolerance magazine, and I had seen the memorial online, but there is nothing quite like seeing it in person.

The memorial itself has characteristics that I cherish in such works. It contains an essential quote, it teaches, it asks people to touch it, and it fosters and emotional response. I couldn't stop reading the timeline, touching the water, and thinking about the sacrifice of the people listed on the memorial. Maya Lin was the perfect choice for the design.

The Memorial Center takes everything a step further, however. The room devoted to the Memorial explains its origin in detail, describes the events surrounding each entry into the timeline, and offers a visual overview of the Civil Rights Movement. There is a short yet powerful video that provides context for the memorial. Finally, a Wall of Tolerance allows visitors to make a pledge of treating all people with tolerance. By having your name on the wall, there is a record of your promise - I hope I can live up to it. This destination is a must see for anyone traveling in the area. You can't visit and not be both impressed and humbled.

I also walked around the Alabama capitol, which may have seen more history than any other state outside the original 13. Alabama voted to secede there, Jefferson Davis was sworn in as President of the Confederacy, George Wallace made his famous "Segregation now!" speech, and the Selma to Montgomery March ended there. It also has a beautiful memorial to Alabama's Confederate soldiers.

Unfortunately, the Rosa Parks Museum was closed by the time I arrived. I guess I will need to return ... with my family.

Martin Luther King Jr. Historical Site

If you are ever in Atlanta, this site is a must see for the whole family. The location is a conglomeration of different sites devoted to the great civil rights leader. The Visitor Center has a fantastic exhibit, there is a Civil Rights Walk of Fame, a tribute to Gandhi and his influence ion King, a historical district, the King birth home, the King Center, and the resting place of Dr. and Mrs. King.

I was fortunate to have a short personal tour with a park ranger, who pointed out some of the more important details about the area. Sweet Auburn was a thriving black community when King lived there, and it helped formulate a vision of success for African Americans in King's mind. the Ranger discussed the impact of the Ebeneezer Baptist Church on King's life, as it was a focal point of his younger years and his early adulthood. The tour of the birth home was fantastic. I learned a few pearls - MLK liked baseball and Monopoly, he hated doing the dishes, and there is nothing in the house that would give anyone a inkling that he would become such a hero to so many, The ranger put it perfectly - anyone can be great if you make the right choices and help others.

The resting place is also a beautiful site, surrounded by a reflecting pool. I found myself comparing it to the reflecting pool by the Lincoln Memorial and making obvious connections to the I Have a dream speech.

Overall, the visit was informative, emotional, and a great start to the trip.

Getting ready

It was difficult to prepare for this trip during the spring, as everything picked up speed at home and at USM in April and May. I did find the time to do a little reading to set the stage, however. I am finishing Harvard Sitkoff's biography on Martin Luther King Jr. (King - Pilgrimage to the Mountaintop) which gave me some more insight into the overall biography of MLK. It also provided enough detail of the Montgomery Bus Boycott, the Birmingham movement in 63, and the Selma movement in 65 for me to be able to sink into more detail when I visit those three locations. I have reread two sections of my favorite book, Confederates in the Attic by Tony Horwitz. His reflections on touring Shiloh and Vicksbug are priceless. I will read a few of the passages and post them if I have time. I have been working on the audio version of Shiloh by Shelby Foote, read in the authors mesmerizing southern gruffness. I also have some great podcasts loaded on the iPod for the lengthy drives between stops.