Civil Rights Musuem in Memphis

After recently reading two books and attending multiple Civil Rights museums exhibits in the past two days, I felt that I knew enough … but, as usual, I was wrong. The National Civil Rights Museum is full of so much information that I felt I was going back to school (but that’s why I am on this trip). The exhibits are almost a media overload – text, primary documents, images, video, and newspapers (my favorite part) telling the story of nearly every aspect of the movement. I learned about sit-ins and boycotts before the big ones, organizations that I had never heard of, the impact of WWII, different reactions to Brown v. Board, more insight into Birmingham and Selma, and the Freedom from Fear March of James Meredith. I also plan on investigating the Chicago Movement more in-depth.
The museum covers the full spectrum of the movement, but there is only one reason for its location in Memphis – MLK’s assassination in the Lorraine Motel in 1968. To see the balcony that I have seen so many times before is one thing … but to see it from inside the hotel, and see his room as it was on April 4, and listen to the song he asked to be sung the next day, … again, walking in the footsteps of history. Across the street, the museum extends to examine the assassination itself. The video presentation on King’s final days and the timeline of his last hours is so detailed, you think you are there. Looking out the window of the supposed shooting site is downright eerie. The artifacts are amazing – the actual bullet? Come on! – and the conspiracy theories are discussed as well.
It’s pretty powerful to travel the South and see the Civil Rights Movement as part of a continuum. Starting at King’s birthplace and younger years, moving to Montgomery, Selma, and Birmingham ( a little out of order, but that’s all right), and ending in Memphis, I feel like I have a much better understanding of and appreciation for the movement and the individuals involved. Now, I need to spread the word – that’s what my friend from Birmingham, Mr. Sanders, told me I must do.

As an aside, I didn't get to see much more of Memphis (no BBQ or Beale Street), but I am confident that I will be back again - with my family. There is a little something for everyone (but no octopus for Charlie).

16th Street Baptist Church service

I attended the Sunday service at the 16th Street Baptist Church, the oldest and most well known of the churches in Birmingham. Those who know me closely may snicker (Chuck went to church? On his own? While traveling?) but I attneded for the histporical significance of the church and also to get a current picture of the role of the church for African AMericans in the South. During the Civil Rights Movement, black churches served as the focal point for spreading news, imploring citizens to act, and developing strength in the community. I think I can say with coinfidence that the church is still fortifying strong communal bonds in the black community today. The service was full of music, children, and communal response. I had never seen anything like it before.

Kelly Ingram Park - Remembering the Children's Crusade

As I walked around this park, across the street from the Birmingham Civil Rights Institute, I was pretty floored by the impact the sculptures and fountains had. The images form the Children’s Crusade are among the most powerful that I use in class throughout the year, and the sculptures associated with the movement are just as awesome. The statue of the dog attacking a young man takes your breath away. The number four is dominant throughout the park, serving as a constant reminder of the “4 Little Girls” that perished in the 16th Street Baptist Church bombing.
I had an unsolicited by much appreciated tour from a local man named Mr. Sanders. He gave me additional insight that isn’t obvious to the casual tourist. He made two interesting observations as well. First, he stated a few times that the monuments and memorials deal with revolution and reconciliation, because you can’t have reconciliation without a revolution. Second, he pointed out the park is named for an Irish American sailor from Birmingham who was the first American sailor killed in WWI. The color of the skin doesn’t matter, he said – just what someone does for others.

You can't walk through this park without feeling something - sad and/or about the events that are commemorated, impressed and proud of the courage the protesters demonstrated, inspired by the message of nonviolence and reconciliation ... I loved the experience. More walking in the footsteps of history.

Montgomery - The Civil Rights Memorial Center

My second stop was Montgomery, and I was unprepared for the Civil Rights Memorial Center, founded by the Southern Poverty Law Center. I was aware of the organization through their Teaching Tolerance magazine, and I had seen the memorial online, but there is nothing quite like seeing it in person.

The memorial itself has characteristics that I cherish in such works. It contains an essential quote, it teaches, it asks people to touch it, and it fosters and emotional response. I couldn't stop reading the timeline, touching the water, and thinking about the sacrifice of the people listed on the memorial. Maya Lin was the perfect choice for the design.

The Memorial Center takes everything a step further, however. The room devoted to the Memorial explains its origin in detail, describes the events surrounding each entry into the timeline, and offers a visual overview of the Civil Rights Movement. There is a short yet powerful video that provides context for the memorial. Finally, a Wall of Tolerance allows visitors to make a pledge of treating all people with tolerance. By having your name on the wall, there is a record of your promise - I hope I can live up to it. This destination is a must see for anyone traveling in the area. You can't visit and not be both impressed and humbled.

I also walked around the Alabama capitol, which may have seen more history than any other state outside the original 13. Alabama voted to secede there, Jefferson Davis was sworn in as President of the Confederacy, George Wallace made his famous "Segregation now!" speech, and the Selma to Montgomery March ended there. It also has a beautiful memorial to Alabama's Confederate soldiers.

Unfortunately, the Rosa Parks Museum was closed by the time I arrived. I guess I will need to return ... with my family.